Where in the World is Port Townsend?

 This is a question I get asked a lot when I am away from the Pacific Northwest. The short answer is Port Townsend is northwest of Seattle on the Olympic Peninsula. In the past, that answer has generally satisfied people, but with all the attention the little Victorian town is getting in the press these days, I thought it would be good to go deeper. Just recently Port Townsend made the "Best List" in Fodors, USA Today, AARP and the Seattle Times.

Depending where you are coming from, ferry travel is likely to be involved, and nothing says Pacific Northwest more than a wonderful ferry ride. As part of the state highway system, it links numerous islands by waterways that zigzag the Puget Sound and up to the San Juan Islands. You can check out the ferry map here and you can see how many paths there are to Port Townsend, or PT as we locals call the town. I love the ferries and generally make the choice to get from here to there that way, but sometimes it's just easier to "drive around"  from Seattle. But if you are visiting, make the boat trip a part of the outing. Once on board, it's relaxing, you can get a cup of good Seattle coffee or a bowl of clam chowder, watch the water traffic from the deck, take a stroll around and stretch your legs. If you are coming from Seattle you can take either the Seattle to Bainbridge ferry or the Edmonds to Kingston boat. Either way, it's about an hour from the ferry terminal, and then head north. Coming from north east, you'll come across Whidbey Island and land slap dab in downtown Port Townsend, with a great view of the city waterfront as you slip into the dock. Coming from Vancouver Island, hop on the Coho, the car ferry from Victoria. You'll go through Customs and Immigration in Port Angeles and then head east for a beautiful drive to Port Townsend.

Changes

When I first moved to Port Townsend in the late 80s, it was a sleepy, rather rundown little town with not much going on. Life revolved around the maritime activities and the boat yard was the hub. Hippies lived in lovely, albeit shabby, Victorian mansions and incognito millionaires drove around in ancient Volvos. The Town Tavern, a classic old bar was the hot spot in town with just a few other restaurants with unmemorable food. The hardware store, an absolute treasure trove, was right downtown on Water Street. Back in the mid-1800's, the town was dubbed the City of Dreams when there were high expectations that it would become the largest harbor on the west coast when the railroad arrived. Sadly, at least for the dreamers, the railroad opted for the eastern side of the Sound and Port Townsend, along with the beautiful Victorian buildings built to house the Consulate and other mucky mucks, became a ghost city. But then, in the early 1990s, the town was re-discovered. It was inexpensive and within easy striking distance of Seattle and Tacoma. Houses and rent were cheap. A couple of new developments were promoted and built - to paraphrase the old Field of Dreams movie quote - "if they build it, they will come". And come  they did, in droves, raising the town's profile to the chic and avant garde center it is today. The hippies are still around, but now they drive Prius' cars and shop at the Co-op for organic lentils and beans! (The Port Townsend Co-op is an absolute gem.)

Downtown is upscale now, with elegant art galleries and gift stores lining Water Street. Small bistros and cafes are tucked into alleyways and specialty stores, like the Spice and Tea Exchange, with its vast selection of teas and spices and Lively Olive that sells unique olive oils and balsamic vinegars. Port Townsend has turned into a real foodie town, with numerous restaurants that serve everything from fresh Dungeness crab to Thai and Indian cuisine, and everything in between. But despite the growing urban-chic feel, PT still keeps its own vibe going. Just wander through the boat yard. Journeymen (and women) clamber over big fishing boats propped up on scaffolding, undergoing restoration and repairs. Carhartt jeans and bib overalls are well-represented; old pickup trucks and yes, old Volvos, hold heavy tool boxes filled with traditional woodworker tools. Long hair, beards and dreads are the norm and the Blue Moose Cafe, right in the boat yard, caters to hungry workers. And even in downtown Port Townsend, there are a few places that still feel like "old Port Townsend." Ku Larb Thai is still right across from the Port Townsend Leader office,  serving up great Thai food. On Tyler Street, even though it changed its name from Tyler Street Cafe to Hillbottom Pie, and their bill of fare is different, the ambiance is still "old" Port Townsend. SeaJ's Cafe, one of the old "dives" is still going strong down on the docks, where you can get an excellent fish and chips and coffee for a buck! Because it has grown up so much, there is a lot to do now, so watch for my More Than 7 Things to do in Port Townsend post. [box type="info"]

Spice and Tea Exchange

929 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368

Lively Olive Tasting Bar

929 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368

Sea J's Cafe

2501 Washington St, Port Townsend, WA 98368

Blue Moose Cafe

311B Haines Place Port Townsend WA 98365[/box]

Where in the World is Ault?

 

Where in the world is Ault?

If you blink as you drive north on Hwy 85, from Eaton, Colorado, you might miss this dot on the map, billed as "A Unique Little Town," covering a total area of 0.7 square miles (1.8 km²). Incorporated in 1904, it is also known as “Gateway to the Pawnee Grasslands.” 

Ault sits directly on a railway line, (a rail runs through it) with vast farm lands stretching for miles around it. The main landmark is the tall grain elevator that appears to be out of use.

Although the town is tiny, it's well worth a stop to explore the antique stores that line the main street. On the day I visited, it was the middle of the week and the streets were quiet. We had the run of the place, and wandered through acres of antiques, marveling at the finds! One of the stores specializes in china and glassware, so the other granny Susan queried about some china she has stashed in a box somewhere. Next visit, we'll take the stashed china with us.

My favorite so far, is Jen's Antique Mall, (we didn't have time to visit all the stores). Located in an old (the whole street is old!) building, there are nooks and crannies to explore and an enormous assortment of stuff. I saw lots of old kitchenware and utensils, old toys, masses of salt and pepper shakers and other goodies that I didn't know were considered antiques as I used them when I was a kid! Hmmm.... makes you think!

Although we were too late to partake of the goodies at Gray's Cafe, (they close at 2pm) the cinnamon rolls are famous in this neck of the woods. Apparently they are huge! So next time we make the jaunt north to Ault, we'll plan on being there before they close, preferably for the also famous breakfast.

Jen's Antique Mall

220 1st St Ault, CO 80610 (970) 834-2877

JR's Antiques Etc.

(China and glassware) 213 1st St, Ault, CO 80610 (970) 834-2291

Antiques Whistle Stop LLC

213 1st St Ault, CO 80610 (970) 834-2198

Gray's Cafe

200 1st St Ault, CO 80610 (970) 834-0741

On the Wild Side

I just went on a wild adventure that I don't think many grannies get to experience! But remember, this is Colorado and the beginning of the year brought momentous changes to the state! (As it has in Washington) so you get my drift! A friend of mine (who wishes to remain un-named) suffers from pretty severe arthritis, and having tried numerous remedies and who regularly abuses her liver with ibuprofen, decided it was time to try the age-old fix, marijuana. Coming from Washington, it really wasn't that much of a stretch to go that route, but ACTUALLY going to a weed store was something neither of us have ever done.

After doing a little research online to find a dispensary close by, we found two on the outskirts of Greeley and on the spur of the moment, hopped in the car and headed on over. The first one - with a very green door - was just off the main road. A sticker on said green door said that they weren't doing recreational weed yet but could dispense medical weed, as long as you had your permit. We went in anyway, through a wafting cloud of smoke, and a young hippy girl with a headband and flowers in her hair suggested the other dispensary, "just around the corner." We snagged business cards, including one for a doctor who will write a prescription - no medical records required - and went "around the corner" to the recreational store.

It was very busy!

A tall, young security guard carded us (yep, two old gray haired ladies had to show ID) and we were in. Of course, we were both giggling and so were the other customers who all looked liked teenagers to us. And there was a lot of laughter as my friend talked to the receptionist and said, "We're on a fact finding mission and can't buy anything until Wednesday, when I get my Social Security check!" But we got the information we needed and decided to actually go into the "inner sanctum" to check out the goods.

We took a number and waited our turn, then followed a youngster into the back room! It felt very clandestine! In the actual store, the edibles, which is what my friend needs, were displayed in a case, and a charming young Hispanic man told us about the brownies, rice crispie treats, caramels and other candies. He explained the "Jewels" which are small 10mg hard candies of various flavors, and suggested that they might be the way to go, as the active ingredients are absorbed sublingually, so the effects are much quicker than say, eating a brownie. It's also a measured dose. This makes a lot of sense. The blend of active stuff is designed for pain relief and for sleep, exactly what she needs.

We forked over the cash, she chose Kiwi Strawberry flavor, green hard candy Jewels and we headed out the door, feeling very chuffed about the whole thing!

What a fun experience that was - so now I can say I have been into a "head shop," which still feels a little shady, despite it being legal!

Cloud 9 Caregivers LLC

2506 6th Ave​

Greeley, CO 80631

970-352-4119

Exploring Locally

As those of you who read this blog know, I believe in exploring and adventuring wherever I happen to be. Recently, I've been moving around a lot, which gives me great opportunities to get out and discover what's happening.

Arriving in Eaton, Colorado ahead of the snow that hit the Rockies the day after I wound my way through them, I quickly got settled at  Susan and Dan's, which is right in Eaton, a small, farming community. That doesn't mean bucolic, pastoral fields of cows grazing, corn growing and vegetable gardens in every yard. This is industrial farming. Miles and miles of flat, cultivated and irrigated land that is just now being turned and will soon be fertilized with heaven knows what! And with the oil and gas boom, just about every field is dotted with fracked wells. Not a pretty sight, but the locals are happy - megabucks pouring into the area and MacMansions popping up in place of corn.

Aaaahhh...progress...

However...

Nothing is going to stop the exploring, so Susan and my first little adventure was into Greeley, a college town about 10 miles from here. Sunday morning and we got a recommendation for a good coffee shop (NOT Starbucks, or Charbucks, as I call it) and made out way into the University District to The Blue Mug @margies, a charming place that reminded us of Port Townsend. Funky furniture, high ceilings with wonderful old tinned tiles and most importantly...good coffee. It wasn't too crowded, being Sunday and the college students were probably still sleeping off heavy Saturday night parties. It wasn't really warm enough to b out on the delightful patio, though. Once it warms up a bit, that will be the place to enjoy sit out  under the big umbrellas and enjoy the surroundings.

As I mentioned, Eaton is a tiny dot on the map, but one of Susan's favorite places is The French Corner, an antique-y store with some lovely stuff. It smelled so good, too as there are bowls of potpourri strategically places, as well as scented candles to brighten the dark corners. It's in an old building that lends itself to the decor. The prices, for the most part, were reasonable and there is a huge variety of goods. We spent a sensory-filled hour or so wandering, touching, smelling and just enjoying.

Eaton actually has two French Corners and we visited both, the second one appearing to have more of a "sale" appearance, although I don't think that is the intention. Either way, both locations are fun places to go.

Yesterday, we planned to go to Fort Collins, which is half an hour or so away as there is supposedly a Farmers Market right in Old Town. Well, we didn't find it, but Old Town is a place I plan on going back to explore. We found out later that the market was indoors! So no wonder we didn't see it.

We made a circular route back to Eaton, but as I had found a Groupon for a tea place in Greeley, we decided to do that instead.

What fun that was!

For Susan, who lived in the area 30 years ago, it was an eye-opener, as the area has grown up so much, getting gentrified and moving beyond being an agricultural town known for its meatpacking plant (which is still here to handle the animals from the local stockyards). There are lovely old building, many brick ones that are starting to house a lot of restaurants, specialty stores and places like Cranford Cove Tea Tavern.

What a delightful place that turned out to be! The Groupon worked getting us in there and I know we will go back. It's in a storefront location and has a surprising twist to the tea theme. Of course, you can get a cuppa but the specialties are alcoholic drinks made with various teas and spirits! My libation was a hot spiced rum drink made with the special chai blend (I always go for rum) and Susan's was a Lemon Drop made with green tea and ...hmm I forget but it was delicious!

Making the Tea Tavern even more special is that it is not-only-for-profit enterprise, that benefits Love Made Claim, a non-profit with "a mission to reach those in the sex industry with the truth that they are loved and valued." I do like to support social entrepreneurs as I believe this is the way of the future.

The Blue Mug

931 16th Street, Greeley, Colorado 80631 (970) 356-6364

The French Corner Market

" A Vintage Shop" 108 Oak Ave ( Hwy 85 ) Eaton, Colorado 80615 970-454-2006

Cranford Cove Tea Tavern

823 10th St. Greeley, CO 80631 970-515-5527

Strawberry Fields Forever

One of the joys of a rural or suburban lifestyle here in New Zealand, is the availability of locally-grown fresh produce. The rolling fields are dotted with grass-fed cattle and sheep, and locals have smallholdings where they grow vegetables and fruits. Some will have honor stands on the roadside where you can get avocados, plums and much more. Just drop your coins in the box, and off you go.

But some have ... pick-it-yourself fields! Eat as much as you want, and pay for what you have in your container.

As strawberries are in season, that's what we've done, a couple of times. And you really cannot compare the flavors of a freshly picked, sun-warmed strawberry to those available in the supermarket.

Somerfields is one of the local growers. They also grow blueberries and raspberries so we have to keep those picking dates in mind!

With our containers in hand, we headed into the field, thinking we might have to really hunt! But no, the berries were literally begging to be picked. So it was onefor the container - and one for me! As I popped them into my mouth, the flavor was exquisite, like nothing I can remember. The warmth of the sun had intensified the flavors  and the berries burst with the first bite. One that I picked was so big, it took four bites to finish it! If I hadn't eaten so many, we probably would have finished picking a lot sooner.

But who can resist just one more? And one more... And one more...

By the time we were done, we were completely satiated.

What a lovely way to go local and have a little fun!

Tauranga Farmers Market

I LOVE Farmers Markets and love to visit them wherever I am. It's a great way to get a feel of  'local' and they give me a real sense of 'place.' Most areas have markets - some areas of the world there are so many that they have them just about every day of the week. Visiting a market is one of the easiest and least expensive way to enjoy the local area without breaking the bank. Everyone has to eat, so why not do your shopping at your local market and make it an adventure! Here in New Zealand, the Tauranga Farmer's Market is every Saturday, all year and is held on the local primary school grounds. What a wonderful market it is! A real community affair with farmers and vendors coming from all over the Bay of Plenty area. And they don't call it Bay of Plenty for nothing. This area is so fertile, just about everything grows. And the market has a very good representation of the abundance in this area.

Naturally, I was keeping my eyes open for story ideas and local presents to take back with me. There was so much there, I was almost overwhelmed!

For instance, Macadamia Liqueur, anyone?  This stuff is absolutely heavenly! Smooth and silky, slips down very easily. The plus for me was they have the little mini bottles so I can take a couple with me. The market is full of the traditional market ware - seasonal vegetables, flowers, plants, cheeses, local and organic meats, prepared food stands with amazing baked goods. And there was a great food demo going on presented by Peter Blakeway, a well-known New Zealand cookbook author who prepared some wonderful-looking scallops! Everything he used in the recipes was available at the market, that day.

Then there was all the tasting to do! Delicious Kiwi cider, as good as any I have had anywhere! Lots of fruit wines and wonderful cheeses. We even tasted local olive oils, pressed by a local farmer who uses biodynamic farming methods.

Tauranga Farmers Market Primary School Arundel Street Trixie Allen, Market Manager 07 5525278

Harbourside Macadamias  402 Matahui Road Katikati New Zealand Phone : +64 7 552 0718 Fax : +64 7 552 0718 Mobile : +64 27 552 0718 Email:   info@harboursidemacadamias.com

Ocider 50 Oikimoke Road, Te Puna Tauranga New Zealand Phone: 07 552 4558 Email: info@ocider.co.nz

Katikati Frantoio Limited Bert van Heuckelum 117 Lindemann Road RD1 Katikati, 3177 New Zealand Phone 07 549 1467 Email:info@olive-oils.co.nz

Peter Blakeway 027 571 2518 Email:peter@peterblakeway.com

Going Local, Wherever You Are

When we think of going local, we generally think of doing stuff, buying stuff, close to home.

But that isn't necessarily the case; well, not in my case, anyway. My current local is The Bay of Plenty on New Zealand's North Island, near the city of Tauranga on the east coast. I'm here visiting family, the main purpose of my stay. So we are not keen to be traipsing all over hell and gone, doing and seeing. Budget constraints are keeping us close to home, but we haven't found that to be a detriment. In fact, it adds to the adventure, as we sometimes have to dig a little deeper than published activity brochures!

From the start of my visit, we have stayed local, discovering, and in some cases, depending who is with me and my sister, re-discovering the sights and attractions that are close by.

Our first trip was simply to the beach at The Mount, or Mount Maunganui, a small town with an old, volcanic mountain that guards the point. As it's a very popular place to visit, with not a lot parking, we took the bus which dropped us right at the base of The Mount. There's a popular walking trail around the mountain and a steep one to the top, neither of which was on our agenda. I was more interested in walking on the beach and enjoying the waves, which were pretty small, with no surfers out, except for a whole flock of them at a surf school, learning to ride on foam boards. It's a pretty bay, with a small spit of land that becomes an island called Leisure Island, or Moturiki, at high tide. Back in the 60s,  apparently Marineland built an amusement park on the island and in 1981 it was rebuilt to include a saltwater swimming pools, bumper boats and a hydro slide! In 1990 the park was removed and now it is a lovely reserve, with an easy walking trail to the top, where the views are amazing.

Still being a little jet-lagged, we popped in for breakfast at the Deckchair Cafe, one of the many cafe's that line the strand. It was wonderful to sit under the umbrellas, drinking good coffee and watching the human traffic wandering along the sidewalk. Know what? There are strange shapes all over the world!

Because I had just arrived from the Northern Hemisphere and relatively cold weather, I felt like I was the palest person around. The locals are all nicely tanned, lots of young (and not so young) women in mini skirts or shorts and the men in shorts too, everyone in sandals or Jandals as they call flip flops here! The UV here is extremely strong and the smell of sunscreen permeated the air. I was just hoping for a mild tan, instead of being neon, glow in the dark white!

Our return bus dropped us off just down the road from home, making it a very pleasant, interesting and scenic outing, one of many to come, by going local in New Zealand.

Granny DOES Travel

 

I've been very remiss in posting my travels recently.

I am in New Zealand, on the trip that inspired me to start this blog back in February. So the posts about some of the places I've been and the things I've been doing may be a bit out of order until I catch up.

So... With my house leased out, kitties taken care of, "stuff" discarded and donated, I loaded up my car and headed south to Southern California, yet again, taking the get-there-quick route down I5. I was very lucky - the day after I left, the first winter storm came in and apparently, it has been frigid since then. I am very happy to be here, and not there where weather is a balmy 70-75 each day.

Spending time with my son, Ryan is always a pleasure and we went off the California Science Center to see the Endeavour. It was my first visit to the Museum and I was wonderfully impressed. What a great place to take young children, or any age child, and show them the wonders of science. Although we went specifically to see the Shuttle, we peeked into some of the other exhibits. The innovative, interactive exhibits that cover ecosystems, science innovation and so much more. Just walking into the exhibits is fascinating, with floor-to-ceiling screens of giant bugs, birds and Ryan's least favorite - maggots!

The Endeavour is awe-inspiring, situated in its own hanger, suspended not too high above our heads! Exhibits surround the Shuttle - you can see and touch a huge set of the landing wheels and, in answer to the question most asked astronauts, a fully-operational shuttle toilet and instructions how the astronauts, both men and women, have to use it. But of course there is the scientific information too.

Entry to the main exhibits is free but as we were there, we bought IMAX tickets and we chose to see The Flight of the Butterflies. I was completely enthralled with the Monarchs, seeing their life cycle before my 3-D eyes, experiencing them almost colliding with me and sensing the breathe of air as they flew by. Absolutely wonderful, and I added their final destination in Reserva de la Biosfera Mariposa Monarca (Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve) in Mexico to my bucket list!

The California Science Center is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. except for Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day. Admission to the Science Center's permanent exhibition galleries is FREE. IMAX admission prices vary depending on age.

California Science Center 700 Exposition Park Drive Los Angeles, CA 90037

(323) SCIENCE (323-724-3623)